Tuesday, July 24, 2012

Introduction to French Wines and the Burgundy Appellation

Since last Fall, I have made it a point to explore the wines of France. Although I've still been trying many different kinds of wines, I have put a particular focus on France. You will find that there are many a great deal to be had with European wines, but I think that sometimes Americans are scared away by the confusing labels. Most French wines do not list the grape on the label and many other European wines are made with grapes unknown to Americans. People understand California labels. Napa Cabernet Sauvignon or Sonoma Chardonnay is familiar. With a French wine, you'd just have to know that Macon Villages means that it is going to be a Chardonnay, because Macon doesn't really grow any red grapes, and because it is located in Burgundy, or as the French say, Bourgogne, the white grape must be Chardonnay. It's actually more pertinent to know that Macon really tells you a lot more than that the grape is Chardonnay. We know that a Chardonnay is usually a full-bodied white, often oaky, but Macon produces some very nice light Chardonnays that go well with seafood, particularly lighter dishes that might be overpowered by a complex, full-bodied Chardonnay.

Burgundy is a small region, but very dense with vineyards, so very few vineyards produce their own wine. Instead, they sell the grapes to more respected producers that can efficiently produce and sell the wine. Likewise, it isn't too difficult to pick out good whites. I recommend Louis Jadot and George Debouf. I thought both were very good and I recommend them if you're interested in trying lighter Chardonnays than you're probably used to. As a note, I found the Louis Jadot to be a little lighter-bodied. I've also had a Nicolas Potel that I thought was good, but it surprised me in its strong oaky flavor, uncharacteristic of Macon Villages, and much closer to a mainstream Chadonnay. Though I have not tasted  Jean Thevenet or Bouchard Aine et Fils, they are generally considered respectable producers of the region.

The final Macon-Villages I will discuss was from Pouilly-Fuisse (yes, again we go deeper into the region). While Macon-Villages is a collection of villages, Pouilly-Fuisse is its own village, and is more respected than the rest and so it has garnered the right to have its label put on the bottle. I tasted a Joseph Drouhin, one of the better producers in Burgundy, that was definitely one of the better Chardonnays I have had. It had a full flavor and taste, but finished smooth and light. A great blend of oak and fruit flavors and an attractive aftertaste that won't overpower food.

I hope that gets you started on your exploration of France. Next time I'll talk about some other recommendations.